Category: Surfing


Southern California Shines

Laguna Sunset - 27 November 2011

Laguna Sunset - 27 November 2011

Gads : How to describe the weather to someone who’s out shoveling snow?

The Thanksgiving holiday weekend was simply – well, not winter!  Temps in the 70s and 80s led everyone to the beach.  It might as well have been a summer day, except the water temps were down low 60s.

Wave were small – but fun to ride.  Locally at Oak Street in Laguna there were morning/midday and evening riders.  The wide swings of the tide created havoc with the small swell, but the weather was so nice, no one seemed to mind.

I SUPed 4 miles with friend Alan Cook midday. A little over a mile out, we found ourselves in the middle of a wild herd of dancing dolphins.  I sat down on my board, put my feet in the water and called to them. They swam and leaped around my board.  One put his nose out of the water and swam toward me, watching me until a just two feet away, dove under the board.  We paddled up and around them for about 30 minutes before they went off in search of a bigger ball of fish.

I’d demoed a Lahaina Kai 14′ board from SUPco (Oak Street and Coast Highway in Laguna Beach).  She’s a sweet ride and I like the way she handled the distance and the softness of her bed.  Not crazy about the camoflauge rubber pattern, but I’m sure that could be changed out.  She was white and red.  Very fast and very fun.

The beach was perfect for an afternoon read, before a late surf session on my Yappa – all 6’10″ of her.  Not quite short.  Not quite long.  She was shaped by James Seixus of San Pedro and she is fast, fun, and maneuverable.  I surfed through the sunset and into the darkness.  Everyone was out of the water but me, and I was surrounded by a golden sea with a pink and yellow glaze.

What a perfect perfect day!

I was demoing a new

Sano and Days of Fun Surf

While the Trestles Pro contest drew spectators and filled parking lots, SANO pushed nice uncrowded waves with early glassy seas and fun waist to chest high faces.  Lots of women in the water the last three days : and that’s GREAT!  More than I’ve seen in a while, and as expected – gracious about sharing waves, easy to talk to and strike up water-born friendships.

Nothing manic or body whomping. Just good time fun surf with long waves point to shore.  Did I say how happy that makes me feel?

The journey I’ve been traveling  … this unraveling of a marriage and 20 year relationship … is chronicled in the book I’m writing – Surfing into Sixty.

Sleep broken… darn shoulders from too much paddling over the last week.  An old weight lifting injury exacerbated by having too much fun I suppose.  What’s a gal to do?  Take some aspirin, take it easy for a couple of days .. and paddle back out.

I get a kick of listening to the silver haired brigade at San Onofre share stories of aches and pains while waiting for waves.  Shoulder surgeries, back issues.  Hey, none of us 20 or 30 anymore, but the good news, none of really cares.  At least while we are surfing. What matters is the magic in the moment – the amazing joy of continued communion with the sea and her power.

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